Pre-Order your Tomato Plants
The pre-order tomato plants is in full swing. There are lots of varieties to choose from some are heirloom as well as the new hybrids. You may order as few as one plant or several trays is you wish. You can mix all the varieties. Your plants will be available for pick up on April 4. To place your order just click https://petalsfromthepast.com/product-category/pre-order/pre-order-tomato-plants-pick-up-april-4/
Bloom sprays are used late February through early April from first bloom until essentially all flowers have opened. Bloom sprays are for fungal problems such as brown rot. They may not be needed every year but are suggested if brown rot on fruit was severe the previous year. We use bloom sprays to control fungal and bacterial diseases. Suggested products are Hi-yield Captan, Hi Yield Vegetable, Flower, Fruit and Ornamental Fungicide (12.5% chlorothalonil )and Fruit Tree Vegetable , Ornamental Fungicide (29.6% chlorothalonil) You may also use Liquid Copper Fungicide and Liquid-Cop.
When applying copper be careful to use the recommended rates to avoid bloom damage. On peaches and plums apply 2 tablespoons per gallon of water at bud break. One tablespoon per gallon of water 2 weeks later. Then 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water 2 weeks after the last spray through petal fall.
Do not spray insecticides during bloom period to protect pollinating bees.
Late Winter Sprays
Copper sprays are excellent for bacterial problems such as fire blight on apple and pear trees and bacterial spot on peach, nectarine, plum and cherry. It is generally best not to mix copper with other spray materials. Don’t spray copper within 2 to 3 weeks oil sprays.
If you are having a problem with scale insects and eggs, mite eggs plus overwintering fungal and bacterial pests you could use Parafine Horticultural Oil, Year-Round Spray Oil, Hi-yield dormant Spray, Saf-t-side (80% petroleum oil or Fertilome dormant Spray and Summer Spray Oil, ( 98.8% horticultural Oil). Do not apply oil sprays within 48 hours of a hard freeze, (below 30 degrees) because freeze damage may be increased.
This spray begins at petal fall (nearly all flower petals have fallen.) and runs until 15 days before harvest. These sprays are used mainly to control insect and disease problems of the fruit. (especially plum curcullio which causes wormy fruit and brown rot which causes fruit rots). The first 2 to 3 sprays should be 7 to 10 days apart with later sprays up until near harvest 2 to 3 weeks apart. Suggested products are Hi Yield Captan Fungicide, Dusting/Wettable sulfur, Thiomyl. When using Thiomyl include Captan in the spray to reduce possible development of resistant strains of brown rot. For plum curculio and other insects, Mal-A Cide (50% malathion) Monterey Garden Insect Sray (0.5% spinosad) The old fruit tree spray that contained Malathion and Captan is no longer available. However the gardener can prepare the same spray by mixing per directions the Captan and malathion together.
Fire blight is the enemy of apple and pear trees. Other plants that are susceptible to fire blight are; Serviceberry, Flowering Quince, Cotonaster, Hawthorn, Loquat, Pyracantha, Spirea, Flowering almond, Plum and Cherry.
It is caused by a bacteria that attacks the blossoms and moves up to the twigs and then the branches, turning the blossoms brown and shriveling and blackening the twigs and branches. In advanced cases discolored oozing patches form on the branches. Fire Blight is easily spread by rain splashes, birds and insects. Gardeners can also spread the disease on infected gardening tools. Disinfect your tools with a 10% clorox solution when trimming infected trees. Dispose of infected plant material by burning or discarding in the trash.
Copper sprays are excellent for bacterial problems such as fire blight. Fire blight spray which contains streptomycin may be used also. Streptomycin should be sprayed about every 10 days during bloom to be effective. Streptomycin is no longer considered an organic spray. For the organic gardener who wants to control Fire Blight without the use of antibiotics, Serenade is suggested. It contains Bacillis subtillis a soil dwelling bacterium that controls leaf blight, black mold, powdery mildew and many other diseases.
Corky Spots on Apples & Pears
Corky spots are areas of flesh from dime to quarter size just under the skin of the fruit on apples and often pears and quince. This condition which is caused by a boron deficiency and sometimes lack of calcium, results in fruits which are not very desirable for consumption. To produce fruits free of cork spots one of the better approaches is to apply calcium nitrate, super phosphate (if needed) and muriate of potash or sulfate of potash. Using calcium nitrate works well with pomme fruits because it supplies both the nitrogen and calcium and doesn’t lower the soil pH which should be maintained at 6 to 7. Dr. Powell adds 2 to 3 tablespoons of calcium nitrate per gallon to all the sprays he applies to the apples and pears.
If you are seeing toothpick like protrusions on the trucks of some of our trees the likely culprit is the Ambrosia Beetle.
Ambrosia beetles tunnel into trees, where they create fungal gardens that serve as food for larvae and adults. The telltale sign of toothpick-like strands protruding from host plants often signals infestations. These protrusions consist of sawdust generated as the female burrows into wood. Other symptoms include sap oozing from the tunnel entrances and branch dieback.
Adults overwinter within their host tree, emerge in spring, and then search for a new host to attack. Both species are a challenge to control, partly because of their wide host range (more than 120 hosts for the granulate ambrosia beetle and 200 hosts for the black stem borer). Thin-barked deciduous trees are often targeted, although conifers can also be attacked.
It is not too late to spray for this problem. Bug Buster and Bonide Fruit Tree Spray can be used.
Pruning and Fertilizing
Prune all spring flowering shrubs such as forysithia, spirea, flowering quince and azaleas after they bloom. Wait to prune butterfly bushes until after you think we have had the last frost.
Prune all repeat flowering roses 1/3 of their height in a dome shape. Wait to prune spring only bloomers until after they have flowered. If you don’t get a chance to prune your repeat bloomers until they have set their buds just wait until they flower then give them a good pruning. Fertilize them with a good rose fertilizer. I like to use Fertilome Rose Food with the systemic insecticide to kill the aphids that are sure to attack your new tender foliage.
Prune muscadines now. Fertilize all your pecan trees with a pecan fertilizer that has zinc. Fertilize blackberries,blueberries and all fruit trees. We use a 12-6-6 fertilizer on the blueberries and blackberries and a Citrus, Pecan and Fruit tree fertilizer on the fruit trees. This fertilizer contains all the micro-nutrients the trees need for good fruit production.
Prune evergreens, pine, hemlock, yew, cleyera and cedar now before they start to grow. Prune spring blooming shrubs after they flower. Don’t wait too long or your will remove next years buds. Prune boxwoods if needed. Open up the inside to allow air circulation and light. Prune pomegranate and summer flowering shrubs. Lilac Chaste tree, Anthony Waterer Spirea and Pee Gee hydrangea should also be pruned now while dormant. Hydrangea arborescens, Annabelle hydrangeas, can be pruned to the ground since they flower on new growth. If the stems are cut to the ground the new shoots produce larger inflorescences. Don’t prune your hydrangea macrophylla, mopheads and lacecaps until after they leaf out. Then prune only the branches that are dead. For pink blooms on the hydrangeas use lime; for blue blooms use aluminum sulphate or camellia and azalea fertilizer.
Vegetables & Flowers
Many varieties of lettuce plants are available now along with spinach, arugula, Swiss chard, kale and other cool season vegetables.
Seeds are also available. There is an excellent selection of herb, vegetable and flowers seeds at the retail shop. We offer Botanical Interest seeds and Renee’s Garden Seeds. Many of the seeds are organic and no GMO.
We also have bulk wildflower seeds for $1.00. They are sold by the teaspoon or tablespoon depending on the size of the seed. These include Zinnia, Cosmos, Sunflowers. Gallardia, also known as Blanket Flower, Black-eyed Susan and Gloriosa Daisy.